What is
dog aggression?
For the purpose of this blog post, we will define “dog
aggression” as any circumstance in which a dog displays an undesired behavior
toward another dog. This behavior could be as simple as excessive barking or may
be a more severe reaction such as snarling, snapping, or biting. There are a
number of triggers for these behaviors, but they all fall under the umbrella of
“dog aggression.”
What
causes dog aggression?
A common misconception people have about dog aggression is
that it is purely a result of poor socialization and it can be “cured” with training/dog
parks/play dates/etc. The cause of dog
aggression is actually multifactorial; a combination of nature and nurture. Sure,
poor upbringing and lack of socialization play a part in the development of dog
aggression, but so do genetics. Just
like humans, dogs’ personalities are highly variable. Some are born to be
outgoing and universally dog friendly while some are born to be more reserved
and dog selective.
The age of the dog also plays a role in dog aggression.
Often puppies are very dog friendly, but their dog tolerance can change as they
reach maturity (around 2-3 years of age).
What
triggers dog aggressive behaviors?
Aggressive behaviors can be triggered by a variety of
circumstances and the purpose of the aggression can range from protection of
resources/territory (toys, food, spot on the bed, etc) to formation of a social
hierarchy (establishment of alpha dominance).
My dog
gets along with some dogs, but not others. Does that mean that he/she is dog
aggressive?
Bad Rap has a wonderful article about dog tolerance levels.
They describe four tolerance categories (dog social, tolerant, selective, and
aggressive) and explain that these categories are constantly in flux. A dog
that was previously dog social can lose tolerance as they mature and ultimately
fall into a more dog selective category. I think it is important to figure out
where your dog’s tolerance level falls. When you understand your dog’s
preferences you can better prepare yourself to manage the situations to which
your dog is exposed.
What can
I do to improve my dog’s behavior with other dogs?
First and foremost, the best thing you can do for your dog
is to set him up for success. Don’t put your dog in situations that result in
the undesired behavior. Avoidance of triggers is the easiest and most effective
way to manage dog aggression. For example: is your dog possessive of his toys? Then
pick up the toys when other dogs are around. Do your dogs fight over food? Then
feed them separately. Does your dog hate strange dogs running up to him? Then
the dog park is not the ideal setting for him.
Once you learn to avoid triggers, you will be 75% of the way
to a happier household. The remaining 25% of your energy can then be spent on
training and behavior modification exercises.
Why do I
need to manage my dog’s interactions?
Have you ever met a person that you don’t like? Perhaps that
person is too rude, too bossy, or too awkward. Whatever it is, you’d just
prefer to avoid any future encounters with that person. It doesn’t mean that
you hate all people, it just means
that there are certain personalities that don’t mesh with yours. The upside for
us is humans have the ability to alter their situation. We can control our
level of interaction with people we don’t like. Dogs can’t. They rely on us to
do that for them.
What are
some training exercises to help with dog aggression?
The best training trick you can teach your dog is “focus.” The ability to gain your dog’s focus despite any
surrounding chaos can help in a wide range of situations. Imagine you are
walking your dog when he suddenly sees a squirrel. Without a second thought,
little Fido jerks the leash from your hand and takes off running. He is just
about to run into oncoming traffic when you shout a stern “Fido!” and he stops
dead in his tracks and turns to look at you. All of that “focus” training just
totally paid off, didn’t it?
 |
Harry practicing his "focus" while Layla
watches squirrels |
To practice gaining focus, start in your house with a low
level of distraction. Keep a few tasty treats on hand and watch your dog as he
goes about his business. As soon as his focus seems to be away from you, say
his name once, in a happy tone. If he turns to look at you, reward him with a
treat. Continue practicing, increasing the distractions as he learns.
The “focus” in response to verbal command generally works
great at home, but sometimes once you are outside amidst the excitement of a
walk the verbal recall is not as effective. In these situations, I find that
bringing my dogs’ favorite squeaky toy is a miraculous replacement for my
voice. Here, I give one squeak on the toy alongside my verbal command and “POW!”...
I’ve got their attention again.
When you notice your dog’s attention turning negatively
toward another dog, use the “focus” trick as a tool to get your dog’s attention
back onto you. Once you regain focus, remove the trigger as quickly as possible
to prevent any further negative behaviors.
Our dog
does well with other dogs outside the home, but he/she is not adjusting well to
the new dog we brought home. What can we do?
I highly recommend a process called “crate and rotate”
whenever you bring a new dog into the home. “Crate and rotate” is an exercise
where for a set period of time (generally 1-2 weeks) you keep your
resident dog and your new dog completely separate from each other. This means
that only one dog is out at a time.
This period of separation allows your resident dog to accept
the fact that there is a new dog in the home and that this dog is there to
stay. At the same time, it allows the new dog time to adjust to his new
surroundings without the added stress of having to meet and interact with his
new canine sibling.
 |
| Ringo and Crosby practcing side-by-side walking |
I know that “crate and rotate” is not ideal. Taking dogs
outside to potty separately and having to spend time with each of them
individually is time consuming and exhausting! But trust me, giving both dogs
time to adjust before forcing an introduction will make a world of difference
in how well they are able to get along.
Another trick I often resort to when things seem a little
tense between the Drool Crew members is side-by-side walking. This exercise is
best when there are two people (one to walk each dog). Walk the dogs side by
side, first with the dogs on the outsides of the two humans. As the walk
progresses, allow the dogs to walk side by side, between the two humans. Side-by-side walking allows the dogs to exercise
and bond as pack members all while reinforcing the humans as their pack
leaders.
Every dog
should get to go to the dog park and have doggy friends. Don’t you think avoiding
these “triggers” is unfair to my dog?
Absolutely not! It’s not unfair to avoid situations that
make your dog uncomfortable. It is, however, unfair to continue to put him into
situations in which he cannot succeed. His well-being is dependent upon you, and
being forced outside of his comfort zone is not in anybody’s best interest.
Oftentimes people project their wants/needs onto their pet.
It is YOU that wants to go to the dog park. YOU want your dog to
get along with your friends’ dogs. YOU want to bring home a second dog. YOU
think your dog is missing out on a great experience, but I can assure you…he is not.
Your dog doesn’t want anything beyond your love and affection.
